December in Austin is when the city completely changes personality.

The weather finally gets cool enough to make a jacket useful, downtown starts filling with holiday lights, restaurants roll out seasonal menus, and bars that normally have very little to do with Christmas suddenly become covered in tinsel, lights, ornaments and enough fake snow to make you forget you’re still in Texas.

And then there is the one Austin holiday tradition that everybody knows:

The Trail of Lights.

But if you think December in Austin is just about taking a walk through Zilker Park and looking at Christmas lights, you’re missing a huge part of what makes the month fun.

December 2023 is bringing back the Trail of Lights, holiday pop-up bars, Christmas markets, seasonal food and plenty of ways to spend the final weeks of the year without sitting at home watching Christmas movies for the 47th time.

And once Christmas is over, Austin immediately switches gears.

Because New Year’s Eve is coming.

THE TRAIL OF LIGHTS IS BACK

For many Austinites, December doesn’t officially begin until the Austin Trail of Lights turns on.

The tradition dates all the way back to 1965, when what started as a small community gathering around a yule log eventually grew into one of Austin’s biggest holiday attractions.

In 2023, the Trail is returning to Zilker Park with more than 2 million lights, 96 lighted trees, more than 70 holiday displays and lighted tunnels, creating a roughly 2.5-mile walk through the park.

That’s a lot of Christmas lights.

And that’s exactly why you shouldn’t treat the Trail of Lights like a quick stop.

You’re going to walk.

You’re going to stop.

You’re going to take pictures.

You’re going to get distracted by food.

You’re probably going to wait for somebody in your group to catch up.

And eventually somebody is going to say, “Are we almost done?”

No.

You’re not.

WHAT’S NEW FOR 2023?

One of the biggest changes this year is the way the Trail is handling admission.

There are multiple free general-admission nights, including December 8, 10 and several nights during the middle of the month, while paid general admission is offered on other nights. The festival also continues to offer upgraded options such as ZIP passes and Platinum experiences for people who want earlier access and additional amenities.

That means you can still experience one of Austin’s biggest holiday traditions without necessarily spending a fortune.

And that’s something we like.

The Trail also continues to offer the things that have become traditions of their own: the Ferris wheel, carousel, Santa’s House, food vendors, live entertainment and designated areas where visitors can roast s’mores.

THE BEST WAY TO DO THE TRAIL

Here’s the Baller ATX recommendation:

Don’t rush it.

Go after sunset.

Wear comfortable shoes.

Bring a jacket because Austin December weather can change quickly.

And don’t show up expecting to walk straight through without stopping.

You’re going to stop.

You should stop.

Take pictures.

Look at the displays.

Get something to eat.

Get a drink.

Ride the Ferris wheel if you’re feeling adventurous.

And make sure you actually walk through the entire trail.

The whole point is experiencing it.

DON’T DRIVE IF YOU DON’T HAVE TO

The Trail of Lights can create a serious parking headache around Zilker Park.

In 2023, parking at Zilker was limited and required a prepaid parking pass, while organizers encouraged visitors to use rideshare, carpools and the Trail’s shuttle system. Shuttle tickets included Trail admission.

So plan ahead.

If you’re going with friends, carpool.

If you’re drinking, rideshare.

And if you’re trying to save money, look at the shuttle options.

The worst way to start a holiday night is sitting in traffic around Zilker wondering where you’re supposed to park.

THE HOLIDAY BAR TAKEOVER

Once you’re done with the lights, Austin’s holiday bar scene is waiting.

And 2023 is bringing back one of the city’s most recognizable Christmas pop-ups:

Miracle on 5th Street.

The holiday takeover at The Eleanor returns for its seventh year, running from November 16 through December 27.

The entire bar gets transformed into a Christmas-themed wonderland, complete with elaborate decorations and holiday cocktails including Jingle Balls Nog, hot buttered rum and seasonal shots.

This is not a subtle Christmas bar.

If you’re looking for one little Christmas tree in the corner, this isn’t it.

The whole point is excess.

Lights.

Ornaments.

Christmas music.

Ridiculous drinks.

And decorations covering basically everything.

That’s exactly why people go.

FROSTY’S CHRISTMAS BAR

Downtown also gets another major holiday transformation in 2023 with Frosty’s Christmas Bar at Tiger Lilly.

The bar becomes a three-floor holiday experience featuring four different bars, themed drinks and massive decorations, including life-size nutcrackers, Christmas trees and enough Christmas lights to make Santa’s navigation system unnecessary.

And this is becoming a bigger trend in Austin.

Holiday bars aren’t just bars with a Christmas cocktail anymore.

They’re experiences.

You walk in and you’re supposed to feel like you stepped into somebody’s extremely over-the-top Christmas fantasy.

And honestly?

Austin does it pretty well.

AUSTIN’S HOLIDAY BARS HAVE BECOME AN EVENT

The holiday pop-up bar scene has changed dramatically over the years.

What used to mean putting a wreath on the door and serving eggnog has turned into full-on productions.

Bars build elaborate themes.

Menus change.

Cocktails get ridiculous names.

There are decorations everywhere.

Some places add Christmas markets, movie nights, themed parties and special events.

That means December has become one of the most entertaining months to explore Austin’s bar scene.

You can spend an entire night visiting holiday bars and never see the same Christmas decorations twice.

DON’T FORGET LALA’S

And then there’s Lala’s Little Nugget.

Unlike the temporary holiday pop-ups, Lala’s has been famous for its Christmas decorations year-round.

That’s what makes it different.

You don’t need to wait until December to get the Christmas experience.

But December is obviously when it makes the most sense.

If you want something more old-school and less polished than the giant holiday pop-ups, Lala’s is the kind of place that feels authentically Austin.

It’s weird.

It’s nostalgic.

It’s a little divey.

And it’s covered in Christmas.

Exactly how it should be.

MAKE IT A HOLIDAY BAR CRAWL

If you’re going to do the holiday bars, don’t just go to one.

Make a night of it.

Start downtown.

Have a drink.

Walk or rideshare to the next place.

Find another Christmas theme.

Then head east.

Grab food.

Find another bar.

The key is to keep the group small enough that you can actually move around.

And remember:

You don’t need to drink at every stop.

Sometimes the best move is to order one drink, look around, take some pictures and move on.

Otherwise, by bar number three, your Christmas spirit is going to be significantly stronger than your ability to walk.

CHRISTMAS FOOD IN AUSTIN

December also gives Austin restaurants an excuse to get creative.

Holiday menus start appearing.

Bakeries begin producing seasonal desserts.

Restaurants add special cocktails.

Coffee shops bring back peppermint, gingerbread and other winter flavors.

And because Austin is Austin, you’ll inevitably find some restaurant putting a Texas spin on a holiday classic.

That’s part of the fun.

You don’t have to eat a traditional Christmas meal every time you go out.

Look for seasonal specials.

Look for holiday brunches.

Look for restaurants doing special dinners.

And definitely look for the bakeries and dessert shops that go all-in on Christmas.

December is one of the easiest months of the year to justify eating dessert.

It’s practically required.

AUSTIN DOES CHRISTMAS DIFFERENTLY

One thing that makes an Austin December interesting is that the city never completely gives up its personality for the holidays.

You might see a traditional Christmas display next to a taco truck.

You might find Santa at a bar.

You might drink an eggnog cocktail at a dive.

You might eat barbecue while looking at Christmas lights.

And you might spend the afternoon in shorts before needing a jacket that night.

That’s Austin.

Christmas here doesn’t mean everything suddenly becomes traditional.

It becomes Austin Christmas.

And that’s much more fun.

THEN COMES NEW YEAR’S EVE

Once Christmas is over, the entire city changes gears.

Suddenly everybody wants to know:

“What are we doing for New Year’s?”

Austin has never had a shortage of options.

Downtown parties.

Live music.

Bars.

Rooftops.

Hotel parties.

Dance clubs.

Restaurants.

Neighborhood celebrations.

And, of course, plenty of people who wait until December 30 to start figuring out what they’re doing.

Don’t be that person.

If you’re planning a big New Year’s Eve night, start thinking about it early.

YOU DON’T HAVE TO SPEND $200

One of the biggest misconceptions about New Year’s Eve is that you need to buy an expensive ticket to have fun.

You don’t.

Some of Austin’s best New Year’s celebrations can be found at regular bars and music venues where the focus is simply on having a good night.

In 2023, local recommendations included places such as Far Out Lounge, where people could catch live music without paying the enormous prices associated with some downtown New Year’s events.

And that’s something to remember.

A packed bar with a good band can be just as fun as a giant hotel party.

Sometimes more fun.

LIVE MUSIC IS THE SAFE BET

If you’re not sure what to do on New Year’s Eve, live music is usually a good answer in Austin.

Find a band you like.

Get some friends together.

Go somewhere with food and drinks.

Watch the show.

Countdown at midnight.

Then figure out how you’re getting home.

You don’t need to reinvent New Year’s Eve.

You just need a good place and good people.

THE BEST NEW YEAR’S EVE STRATEGY

Here’s the Baller ATX plan:

Dinner around 7 p.m.

Don’t start the night hungry.

Drinks around 8:30.

Find your first bar.

Live music around 9:30.

Get somewhere you’ll want to stay.

Midnight countdown.

Celebrate.

12:15 a.m.

Do not immediately try to leave downtown with 100,000 other people.

Stay put.

Have another drink.

Grab food.

Let the traffic calm down.

1:30 or 2 a.m.

Head home safely.

The worst New Year’s Eve plan is trying to move across Austin immediately after midnight.

Everybody else has the same idea.

AND THEN THERE’S THE AFTERPARTY

For people who aren’t ready to go home at midnight, Austin’s nightlife continues.

Some bars stay open late.

Some venues have DJs.

Some restaurants and food spots continue serving.

And the city’s dive bars are often the place to go if you want to escape the giant downtown crowds.

That’s another reason we love Austin.

You don’t have to celebrate New Year’s Eve in one particular way.

You can go huge.

You can go casual.

You can stay home.

You can go to a neighborhood bar.

You can see a concert.

You can get dressed up.

You can wear jeans and a T-shirt.

There is no wrong answer.

DECEMBER IS ABOUT TRADITIONS

That’s ultimately what makes December special in Austin.

The Trail of Lights.

Holiday bars.

Christmas decorations.

Seasonal food.

Old traditions.

New traditions.

And then New Year’s Eve.

Somebody will go to the Trail for the first time.

Somebody else will have gone every year since they were a kid.

Somebody will discover Lala’s.

Somebody will spend the entire month trying every holiday cocktail in town.

Somebody will insist they have found the best Christmas lights in Austin.

And somebody will wait until 11 p.m. on December 31 to figure out where they’re going.

Don’t be that person.

THE BALLER ATX DECEMBER CHECKLIST

If you’re looking for a simple Austin December bucket list, start here:

✔ Walk the Trail of Lights

✔ Find a holiday pop-up bar

✔ Visit Lala’s Little Nugget

✔ Try a seasonal cocktail

✔ Eat something from a holiday menu

✔ Check out a Christmas lights neighborhood

✔ See live music

✔ Find a new restaurant

✔ Make New Year’s Eve plans

✔ Have a safe ride home

And most importantly:

Get out of the house.

Austin is at its best when you’re actually experiencing it.

THE FINAL MONTH OF THE YEAR

December has a funny way of making people slow down.

The year is ending.

People are coming home.

Friends are visiting.

Restaurants are busy.

Bars are decorated.

The city feels a little different.

And Austin has plenty of ways to take advantage of it.

Start at Zilker.

Walk through millions of lights.

Find a holiday drink.

Eat something good.

Listen to some music.

Visit a bar you’ve never tried.

Then, when Christmas is over, get ready for the final night of the year.

Because New Year’s Eve in Austin is waiting.

And if you plan it correctly, you can end 2023 exactly how you should:

With good food, good drinks, good music and a great group of people.

That’s a pretty good way to finish the year.